Smith-Madrone and a Lesson in Seduction

Has old-school become the new new-school? Perhaps that doesn’t make any sense, but it’s something I realized on a tour of Smith-Madrone yesterday.

The Vineyards

A winding ascent from Santa Rosa (or St Helena) leads to the Spring Mountain District of Napa Valley. The hillside provides a commanding view of the valley, along with good wine. It is here that Smith-Madrone is located – a small old winery in the midst of its own vineyard. The winery was founded in 1971, well before Spring Mountain became an AVA in 1993.

Upon arrival, I was greeted with a tour of the beautiful grounds and an energetic pup. Vineyards and madrone trees sit side-by-side in harmony on the hillside, and I became very excited to find out what these hillside vineyards are capable of producing. As much as I’d love to have roamed the vineyards, it is the fruits of their labors which brought me here, and no time was wasted in discovering them.

Looking down the valley

The Wines

In the winery the brothers Stuart and Charles Smith (not the “rockstar”) poured generous amounts of their current releases and a couple of tank samples. We tasted the 2007 and 2009 Chardonnay, both made in a classic oaked style, which I am slowly growing fond of as the rest of the world slowly becomes entranced with stainless chardonnay (boring!). The 2009 was in tank and ready for bottling, but the 2007 was clearly in a better stage at the moment, which is why it’s the current release I suppose. It is here that we got into a philosophical discussion that still has me thinking.

A few ounces of 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon was poured into my glass, and over the next few minutes I began to understand why people go berserk over Napa cabernet. Mondovino became the subject at hand, in a manner of which I don’t recall. There is a scene in Burgundy where an old vigneron is bashing high alcohol, “new world” wines — claiming they seduce immediately but don’t leave a lasting impression, much like topless dancers (that part isn’t in the movie).

The Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon is not one of those wines. The alcohol reads 13.9%, and the wine is beautifully balanced and exactly what cabernet should be. I don’t know what the professionals have scored this wine, but it doesn’t matter; it’s not a fruit bomb, but it is fully ripe and highly seducing, just not immediately. They sent me out with a bottle which I was looking forward to cellaring, but to make a long story short it was consumed that night at a restaurant in St Helena and very much enjoyed by all. R.I.P., sexy Cabernet; you are already missed.

A Fish Out of Water

Riesling and Napa Valley are two words I never expect to hear in the same sentence (like complex and pinot grigio), but alas, there does exist at least one tasty Napa Valley Riesling. I wouldn’t venture to place it quite on the pedestal with Poet’s Leap or Tantalus and the rest of the best of the Northwest, but it could be placed on a slightly shorter, rounder pedestal. They did mention that at one point in their careers they used some skin contact on the Riesling. I’m tempted to seek out a bottle of this, because we all know about my unhealthy obsession with skin contact.

The Rest of the Story

Stuart and Charlie have been making wine significantly longer than I’ve been drinking it, and I think they know what they’re doing at this point. It’s somewhat ironic that there exists a significant wave of young winemakers who insist on all-but-eliminating technology and everything California has taught us about winemaking from the process. I can’t argue with the wines nor with their experience level, but I am in this wave, so all I can really say is that they have a point. But old-school is the new new-school, and I’m sticking to it.

The DRC of British Columbia?

Can’t act. Slightly bald. Also dances. Such is the slogan adorning the back label of all 10,000 bottles or so put out every year at Foxtrot Vineyards on the Naramata Bench in British Columbia. It’s fitting for winemaker and vineyard manager, Gustav Allander, a laid back guy who’s quietly crafting some of the best wines in Canada, if not the best.

Gustav was kind enough to meet us on short notice, but then again it appears he didn’t have far to go as he lives on site. A steep hillside property planted to three acres of pinot noir surrounds the house and the largely undergound winery. His crush pad doubles as a patio for 11 months of the year, but unfortunately the uniquely designed destemmer is unable to serve as a water slide. After a chat outside he opens the door to the cave where many wonders behold.

The vineyard and crush pad

After visiting three wineries which create upwards of 20 different bottlings, it was very refreshing to learn that Gustav makes two wines per year: a chardonnay and a pinot noir. Such is often the blight of ambitious young wine regions; and all too often it seems the focus is placed on quantity more than quality. This is not the case at Foxtrot, where quality is everything. Gustav didn’t hold back any secrets, he told us exactly how the wine is made, and it only whetted my appetite for the tasting to come.

The 2009 Foxtrot Vineyards Chardonnay Okanagan Valley was poured first, out of a freshly opened bottle which had only been sealed one week prior. If this wine was going through bottle shock I am dying to know what it will taste like when it’s back in its full form. Were it not for the brand new and technologically advanced winery, I could have felt as though I were tasting in Montrachet. The acid is still potent, the oak is noticeable but pleasant, and all aspects are in perfect harmony. This is easily one of the best three chardonnays I’ve ever tasted, and it certainly has potential to vie for the top spot.

The excitement had now fully built for the 2007 Foxtrot Vineyards Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, and it didn’t let me down. Now, I won’t claim to be an expert on pinot noir — living in Walla Walla tends to limit exposure to the noble variety, but drinking this wine makes me fully understand the following this grape has. The soils of the Okanagan slopes become finer as one approaches lake level, and this particular estate has a range from windblown loess to a clay-based soil. Perhaps it’s this range of terroir within the three acres, or maybe it’s due to the use of 33% whole clusters, but it’s likely a combination of these and other factors which provide a stunning complexity to these wines. The wine is aged in 100% new French oak from a single cooper, but I would have never guessed that as the oak does not take center stage, but rather plays a supporting role.

I fully believe that if this wine were created in Oregon or on the Sonoma Coast it would sell for $100 per bottle. Luckily for anyone who makes the trip to British Columbia, the wine is only $55. This still isn’t cheap, but in the world of high end pinot things can get out of hand pretty quickly. We followed up the 2007 with a few barrel samples from the 2009 vintage which received the same treatment except for yeast strain. It’s amazing to see the differences this causes, although I wouldn’t discount the fact that these wines were also likely from different vineyard blocks or different clones.

The tasting finished with Gustav generously opening his first vintage of pinot from 2004. Until 2007 the wine was made at Lake Breeze, but this didn’t seem to hurt it. While showing some browning in color, the wine could give most Burgundies a run for their money. How long until the rest of the world realizes the potential for pinot noir in the Okanagan? Hopefully it’s still some ways off, as it just means more for all of us who have discovered it already. As for Gustav and Foxtrot Vineyards, I’d say the slogan is too modest, for he has a full head of hair and his wine doesn’t just dance; it gets jiggy.

Dazed and Canadian

Across the 49th parallel in British Columbia lies the Okanagan Valley; and while in proximity to Washington, in actuality it is worlds apart (separate ways). The Valley is tall and skinny, stretching from the relatively warm south to the cooler north on the banks of Okanagan Lake. Besides the natural beauty of the valley, there are over 120 wineries from which to chose. Unfortunately I only had two days in the area, so I fell a few short of the total.

The Naramata Bench

The normally sun-drenched Okanagan was wet for much of the trip, as most of the Pacific Northwest has been since seemingly eternity. Mudslides aside, I spent most of day one on the Naramata bench, a gradual west facing slope on the south east bank of the lake. The Naramata bench is it’s own subregion of the Okanagan Valley and there are certainly a lot of wineries to choose from.

The morning highlight was the stellar 2008 Lake Breeze Seven Poplars Chardonnay. This came as a relief after some underwhelming wines earlier in the day, and it was mostly uphill from there. The other two winos in my party had heard of a place called Foxtrot, which is as elusive as it sounds. Their dedication paid off, however, and we got an appointment after lunch. This was the highlight of the trip, and it deserves its own blog post, so I’m giving it such.

Tantalus

A drive up the west side of the lake brings one to the largest city in the valley, Kelowna. Probably most famous for the filming location of 2006 zombie movie Fido (not to be confused with its prog musician homonym, Phideaux), Kelowna is also home to its own group of wineries. Where there’s wine there’s food, and a dinner at RauDZ in downtown was worth the wait (it was quite a popular place). Besides the great food they had a high end selection of local wines available by the glass; but unfortunately no enslaved zombies to speak of.

The bar staff told tales of a stellar riesling being created by Tantalus Vineyards, and this seemed worth seeking out. A short drive from the city lies the estate with 40 planted acres. A very modern white building dominates the center, and it feels very much like something out of the movie Sleeper, only there is no orgasmatron inside.

New Zealand borne winemaker David Paterson (in a good mood after their football team managed a draw) was serving as the tasting room host, and this proved to be the other highlight of the trip. Besides his 2009 Tantalus Vineyards Dry Riesling, which can easily compete with the top Rieslings of Washington (if not smash them), he also had created a duo of pinot noirs worth noting. At $30 the 2008 Tantalus Vineyards Pinot Noir is one of the most fairly priced pinot noirs I’ve ever come across. Oh, oh, and it turns out there is an orgasmatron inside, only it’s disguised as a Canadian riesling.

Blue Mountain Vineyard

After Tantalus I was feeling some pain in the pocket book, but one more stop had to be made. About a 60 minute drive from Kelowna landed me in one of the most stunning settings I’ve ever seen. This is Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars, another appointment only stop but worth the effort just for the view. Their wines were impressive, too, and the pinot noir solidified my belief that this is the grape of the future for the Okanagan.

The region as a whole is still learning, and with time they will figure out their ideal grape varieties, much as Walla Walla is still doing. So far it seems pinot noir, chardonnay, and riesling have the lead. Unfortunately NAFTA doesn’t apply when it comes to wine, so it makes sense that the southern end of the valley is creating California style Bordeaux reds to satisfy that market.

The Okanagan Valley just may be the most beautiful wine region in North America, and the wines should not be overlooked either. Unfortunately the wines are basically impossible to find in the US, but knowing what can be done with pinot north of the border will surely bring me back in the future — or maybe I’ll just move to Canada as I so often threaten. I wouldn’t mind having a pet zombie, afterall.

My Chardonnay is Buttery

It’s a good thing that Eric was absent in tonight’s Council meeting, otherwise it’s likely that ten points would have to be subtracted from the Council score. That and Eric might still be puking in the sink.

2006 Pend Oreille Idaho Chardonnay

This wine is from Idaho. Previous to tonight the only Idahoan wine I’d passed through my lips was a late harvest Riesling. Needless to say, neither Mike nor Jason guessed Idaho on this, but then again it’s pretty dominated by oak and malolactic fermentation by-products (namely Diacetyl). Somehow it works though; maybe it’s because the acid is a bit crisper than its California counterparts, or maybe it’s because we had just had a great dinner at Brasserie Four with a nice Crozes-Hermitage. When in doubt always pick the Crozes. Actually, that’s not true at all.

Back to the point of this reflection: the wine is actually quite interesting and it was good enough to warrant an above-average score by the Terroirists. While it doesn’t match the 2006 Chassagne Montrachet which I was lucky enough to try tonight, with what role it plays it plays it well. Chardonnay works so well at times in Burgundy that I’m not sure why we bother to plant it over here. Maybe we should stick to a white wine Europe can’t grow as well, such as…. umm…. well there must be something. Oh, Seyval Blanc.

Mike’s score: 90
Jason’s score: 88
Steven’s score: 87 (unblind)

Council of Variable Members score: 88

We are still waiting on the first 90+ Council meeting. If tomorrow was not the date of the party of the century in Walla Walla it could potentially come soon. For now, just wait longer.

Dinner and a Dehydration

As this weekend comes to a close it is time to reflect on the events of the past two days. From slightly inebriated valet parkers to overdoses of Riesling, Walla Walla has delivered yet another wine-filled, 72-hour journey.

Overlooking the Blues

April 10, 2010 will forever be written down in history as the day on which the third La Porte Brune dinner was held. This month’s feast took place high above the Walla Walla Valley in the home of Walla Faces. The five course meal included thrills, a few spills, and some risotto.

La Porte Brune #3

The wines were all delicious as expected, including the super-yeasty Crement du Jura and the somewhat-bretty Brunello. The Pouilly-Fuisse was fantastic and so was the Alaskan Halibut, but combined they were the weakest pairing of the night. We agreed the dish needed a more acidic wine, as the combination caused the Chardonnay to come across as flabby (which is absolutely never true). That said, it was still a better pairing than anything I’ve come up with in the comfort of my own kitchen. The best pairing of the night went to the Walla Faces Syrah with the Lamb Ragout, however, this may be due to the fact that we had significantly more of the Syrah available than the other wines and therefore had much larger pours.

The Nightcap

Chef Andrae Bopp tossed out stellar dish after stellar fish and ended on a high note with a delicious canolli paired with a pink Moscato d’Asti. As far as I know the 40 people attending the meal and the staff are the only souls to have tried a pink MdA. It had something going on; something which is beyond the level that typed words on a screen can describe. Actually, I’m just lazy.

For the nightcap hosts Rick and Debbie Johnson donated six bottles of a 2003 Brunello. It was not a bad way to end the night, and as far as I know the valet parkers successfully delivered all of the cars as well.