Terroirists at Tero

The Windrow On the Hill

Steven Washuta

Were it not for the dozens of tasting rooms scattered around town, much of Walla Walla hardly looks like wine country. A drive south of the border to the area known as “the rocks,”  instantly transforms the scenery into that of vineyards young and old, but mostly young. The 220 acres of Seven Hills Vineyard looms on a hill above the area, and just a stone’s throw to the west lies Tero Estates at Windrow Vineyard.

View up Dry Creek

Part of the vineyard is actually the original Seven Hills, planted in 1980. The story of what is now Seven Hills is more complicated than some second order differential equations. Regardless, Doug and Jan Roskelley now own Windrow Vineyard – a medium-sized estate (small by California standards), with some of the oldest vines in the Walla Walla Valley and some of the youngest — including recent plantings of Charbono and Petite Sirah. They’ve built a towering winery on premise which provides a commanding view of the surrounding hills and vineyards.

After checking out the view,  Ashley Trout poured us her 2006 Flying Trout Deep River Red, a blend of Sangiovese and Malbec from Stillwater Creek and Phinny Hill vineyards, respectively. Ashley is now producing the 500 or so cases of Flying Trout at Tero in a deal which seems to be working out very well on both ends. I’ve yet to be sold on both Sangiovese and Malbec being grown in Washington, but this wine is spot-on. The nose is a very attractive blend of fruit and flowers, and the wine is much more in balance than many found in the great state of Washington.

More than a feeling

Eric Noreen

I feel the need to chime in on this one as well. The trip to Tero Estates did wonders for me. It felt as though everything that made me fall in love with wine were all together in one place: beautiful vineyards, great wine and good people. The wine from Tero Estates was evolution in bottled liquid form, every time I took a sip I was able to find something completely different. Flavor profiles running the gambit of nutty cheese’s to cherry flavored pipe tobacco. I believe this wine may be one of the finest Walla Walla wines I have had here in my close to two years. It may be a bit of a task to get there, but then again when are the best things in life easy.

Responsible Viticulture

Michael Penn

The line between organic viticulture, and making the most sustainable decision in the vineyard can be a fuzzy line at times, and Windrow Vineyards walks it thoughtfully and carefully.  For example, organic vineyards are heavily reliant on sulfur to control mildew.

Windrow Vineyards chooses to use mild synthetic fungicides for three reasons.  They require less sprays per year and this mean less consumed fuel.  In sulfur dependent vineyards, the sulfur can accumulate in the soil, and on the grape skin, and are thus available for microbes to eat and turn into flavor compounds.  And finally, sulfur can kill beneficial insects which are the marker of a healthy vineyard ecosystem.

The wines from Tero Estates are terroir driven because they reflect a beautiful and responsibly managed vineyard.  In the 2007 Windrow Blend that we tried, the entire wine was harvested in a single day.  This wine reflects a unique time and place, its unique profile could be found in no other wine, and the Terroirists highly recommend that you get in contact with Tero Estates on your next visit to Walla Walla.   Call ahead, they are by appointment only.  And please, don’t be scared by the appointment only.  If you have read this blog, then you will be welcome.

The Precursor to the Precursor

There comes a point where where being a wine blogger in the heart of a wine country can be tricky. All was well in Walla Walla today – it’s Mike’s birthday and we feasted upon great salmon and locally slaughtered asparagus. It became trickier when Mike unleashed a brown-bagged wine for us to rate.

2007 Walla Walla Vintners Pepper Bridge Vineyard Malbec

We had just arrived at the HQ from a great tour at Tero Estates (review to be posted soon), and the cooking process had begun while NHL playoffs resonated throughout the living room. Mike poured a wine into the house decanter and we took a gander. We mostly agreed on one thing: the wine is good, solid, but simple. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the wine and there are a few things which are very enjoyable. The nose smelled of fruit (cherries or cranberries maybe), some oak, maybe a bit of a skunk (in a good way), and as Eric says: mayonnaise. Pepper Bridge Vineyard is one of Walla Walla’s biggest and best, but in this wine I wish it could have delivered more tannins. This Malbec would actually probably be quite popular; it’s smooth, supple, and delicious. A case against wine critics has been made tonight, but the Terroirists live on.

Mike’s score: 90 (unblind)
Eric’s score: 87
Nathaniel’s score: 86
Steven’s score: 84

Council of Variable Members score: 87

87 points isn’t anything to be ashamed of, but I think we all expected more out of this wine than it delivered. At least we had hockey to entertain us.

Inspired by the Winds

This wine comes from the land of milk and honey: Mendoza.

Trivento 2007 Malbec ~$10

Perhaps this wine truly is inspired by the winds — as the label claims. I don’t know what the winds taste like though. My guess after this ethereal experience is that of cherry and coconut curry. Despite a somewhat light color and somewhat lacking explosiveness in the nose, this wine held its own against three of the toughest wine bloggers in Walla Walla. Throw some barnyard poopy action into the cherry bin (don’t forget the coconut) and there you have it. Bam! Not a bad drinking experience – try it with some of Mike’s famous butternut squash apple soup or some locally slaughtered lambs.

Mike’s score: 89
Steven’s score: 88
Eric’s score: 87 (unblind)

Council of Variable Members score: 88

I’m still trying to talk the clan into rating two wines tonight… I might have to finish this one to convince them. It’s going to be a long Friday.